Manuals · commissioning
First power-on. Get this order wrong and you cook a board.
This is the Zarkaar sequence for a 2026 house hybrid (Inverex Nitrox / Knox Krypton-Care / SolarMax / Growatt SPH / Deye SUN-6K / Solis S6 class + 51.2 V LFP + 640–650 W strings). The carton sheet still wins if it names a different order. On-grid-only boxes skip the battery steps — see on-grid manual.
What this manual is for
The hour the installer leaves. You should be able to: (1) name what is on backup, (2) survive a test shed, (3) open the app as the plant owner, (4) hold a paper with serials, Voc, earth ohms, and LCD battery type. If any of those are missing, the job is not commissioned.
0. Do not energise until
- Earth rod in. Test ≤10 Ω (some LESCO / IESCO checklists want <5 Ω). Bond inverter chassis, structure, and AC earth to the same rod. A floating hybrid in a damp courtyard is how people get a tingle on the sink.
- Backup DB split and labelled: fridge, ceiling fans on that floor, lights, router, maybe one inverter AC if the bank and hybrid rating allow. Geyser, extra ACs, welder, water heater stay on GRID-only. See geyser and single AC.
- PV isolator OFF. Battery switch OFF. Grid MCB OFF. LOAD MCB OFF.
- Polarity marked on every DC run. MC4 same family both ends (no Stäubli-to-clone). CAN cable is the inverter’s lithium lead or the pack’s, not a random CAT5 patch from a computer shop unless the OEM sheet says RJ45 pinout X.
- Flash report photographed. Plate serials match the pallet. Battery and inverter serials photographed. These are the warranty.
1. Battery first (LFP)
Confirm the pack front switch is OFF. Land BAT+ / BAT− on the inverter lugs, then on the pack. Red is +, black is −. Reverse polarity on a 51.2 V wall pack is a dead BMS, not a “we’ll swap it later.” Torque the lugs to the carton N·m. Fit the DC breaker / fuse between pack and inverter — do not rely on the pack FET as your only disconnect.
CAN: master pack CAN-IN (or COM) to the inverter BMS / CAN port. If you stack packs, daisy-chain CAN OUT → next IN and set addresses / DIPs as the insert. Parallel Dyness with Pylontech on one bus is not a thing.
Switch the pack ON. Wake if the model has an SW button (~3 s on Dyness DL5.0C). LEDs should show SOC, not a solid alarm. Measure pack voltage at the inverter terminals: about 51–54 V on a 16S LFP sitting mid-charge; a 0 V reading means the switch is still off, the wake failed, or a lug is painted with oxide. Close the battery DC breaker last. Full sequence: LFP manual.
2. Inverter program (before PV)
Power the hybrid from the battery so the LCD is alive. Set battery type to the protocol on the carton, not “USE”:
- Pylontech → PYL (or Pylon / Li PYL).
- Dyness → the Dyness / LIB item that the pairing table names for that hybrid firmware.
- Knox Powerwall / LIO → Knox lithium item, not a generic 48 V.
- BYD LV → only if the inverter is on BYD’s list.
- USE / User / custom voltages — last resort. Often voids LFP paper because the BMS is then a spectator.
Charge current: at or under the pack’s continuous amps (often 50–100 A on a 5.12 kWh wall). Output source for a shed house: solar first, then battery, then grid. AC output 230 V. Charge source: PV first; grid charge only if you accepted that on the quote (night AC on a small pack often needs a little grid assist — that is a design choice, not a default). Save. Pair the Wi-Fi dongle later — BMS talk comes before pretty graphs. LCD map: hybrid manual.
3. PV
With the isolator still off the inverter, measure string Voc. It must match flash Voc × module count, plus a bit on a cold morning. January 8 a.m. in Quetta or Murree is the dangerous number, not June noon in Multan. If Voc is over the inverter’s absolute max, you open a string before you close the isolator — you do not “see if the MPPT clips it.”
Land PV+ / PV−. Same polarity as the silk-screen. Close isolator. With sun up, the LCD should show PV watts within a minute. Zero watts at noon with Voc present = isolator half-seated, one MC4 not clicked, or a reverse-polarity string. Plate rules: plates. Cable rules: cables.
4. Grid, then load
Close GRID MCB. The hybrid syncs (grid LED). Then close LOAD / backup MCB. Watch transfer: kill the incoming GRID MCB (or the test isolator the electrician left). Fridge compressor and fans on the backup DB must stay up — a 10–20 ms blink of lights is normal; a hard off is not.
If they die: loads are on the GRID port, the battery switch is off, SOC is 0%, CAN is unplugged, or you bought an on-grid box. Do not leave until this test is done in front of the owner.
5. App as the owner
Dongle in, 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi, plant created on an account the homeowner controls — not a shop Gmail they will never see again. Write the login on the handover sheet. Apps manual.
6. Write it down (this is the warranty)
- String Voc, Isc, clamp torque, earth ohms, iron kit (L2 14 SWG / Al rail).
- Plate brand + watt + serials + flash file name.
- Battery brand + model + serial + firmware + parallel address.
- Inverter brand + model + serial + LCD battery type + charge current + output source.
- App name, plant ID, owner email. What is on backup vs GRID-only. Wash schedule (dawn, not noon).
- Net-billing: whether the DISCO file is started, sanctioned load, export working rate we used in the quote (~Rs 11).
First week
Let PV take the pack to 100% once so the BMS SOC is honest. Do not run two 1.5-ton ACs on LOAD “to try it.” Watch the app at 2 p.m. (PV) and 9 p.m. (SOC). If SOC is empty every evening, either the geyser snuck onto backup or the bank is too small — that is a design conversation, not a defective pack.
Hybrid daily use → · LFP → · If something is already wrong →